Moved our stuff to the Metropolis into bijou room 107. First stop in Delhi - Poste Restante, 3 letters each, Oz got cuttings about Carry On Columbus and the England football team and I discovered Christy is thinking of quitting her job. Stupid girl. Then we walked to Connaught Place only to discover Thai International had moved. Fortunately, not too far. We reconfirmed our flights and then we went to Cathay Pacific around the corner & I confirmed Bangkok to Hong Kong. The service in both places was good but then they are not Indian companies.
Then we set off to the Jantar Mantar and received our welcome to Delhi. We were surrounded by a group of women shouting "baksheesh" and pulling and jostling us. They stopped bothering me and concentrated on Oz and we both realised why at the same time. Using her sari as a cover one of them had her hand in Oz's bumbag. Oz swung a kick at one & I pushed another away but we escaped with the bumbag contents intact. Close shave.
Next was Parliament House and then the National Museum - it was Monday & closed. We walked along RajPath to India Gate & then settled down for some soft drinks, water & ice cream. Then we did the long walk out to Humayun's Tomb. Very Taj Mahal-esque. We caught a rickshaw back to the Main Bazaar and walked the few hundred yards to the hotel fighting our way through the crowd.
Disaster struck. Somewhere between the rickshaw and the hotel someone had managed to remove Oz's money from his bumbag. Luckily passport, flight tickets, etc were still there. But we were both really pissed off. After 4 months someone finally pulled a major one over us.
We ate in the Metropolis restaurant, mainly because we'd lost the urge to go out. We met a young English girl who had just arrived in Delhi to do 2 1/2 months voluntary work. She was shell-shocked, culture-shocked, couldn't stand the heat or the smells and was scared to go out. I don't envy her. 5 days here seems like a long time. 10 weeks as a lonely, female must seem like a long time in hell.
2012
I remember the young girl well. We'd had months travelling round SE Asia as preparation for the shock of India. She'd just jumped off a plane from the UK not having a clue about what she was going to encounter. She was close to a nervous breakdown.
Things you need to know about India (and which the young girl obviously didn't). The following is purloined from http://www.scottstours.com/
BARGAINING
Everything in India can be bargained for except for hotels, meals, "fixed-price" government handicraft shops, many clothing and shoe stores, and some taxis that have meters. At first you may not feel comfortable with bargaining, unless you come from a bargaining ethnic group or you’ve had experience in other countries. But you learn it fast and it can get to be fun.
Indian ethics goes like this: "You are a foreigner, you can afford a vacation to come to my country, you must have lots of money, therefore you should pay more to subsidize someone else who needs this item or service but is poor."
Items and some services will be verbally marked up to as much as three times the local price. You usually have a good deal if you can get them down to below 50% of their original price.
Bargaining goes something like this: 1) First decide in yourself what you’re comfortably willing to pay. 2) Offer 25–50% of what they are asking and work up toward your final predetermined price. If they don't offer it to you at or below the price you’re willing to pay, start walking away; sometimes they'll come after you and continue to bargain; in this way you know you have the upper hand. If they don't come after you, it means they won't bargain any lower; you then have to decide whether to bite the bullet and meet their final asking price or move on and look elsewhere.
BAKSHEESH
Baksheesh can be defined as a “tip,” but it is actually a lot more. Think of it as paying for services ahead of time; judicious baksheesh will open doors, find missing letters, and perform other small miracles.
If you’re going to be using a service repeatedly, an initial tip will ensure the standards are kept up.
Many Westerners find this aspect of Indian travel the most trying–the expectations that because you're a foreigner, you'll tip. However, from an Indian perspective, baksheesh is an integral part of the system. It is expected and accepted by both sides of the Indian culture
BEGGARS
Although most people think of baksheesh in terms of tipping, it also refers to giving alms to beggars. Wherever you turn in India you'll be confronted by beggars; many of them (often handicapped or disfigured) are genuinely in dire need,.
You will experience many, especially young children, begging from tourists. Their style is to follow you, tugging and whining repeatedly, until you give something just to get rid of them. In general, it is better not to give them money, because you will be quickly mobbed by other street beggars and you encourage them to hassle tourists. So if you are moved, buy some food and give it to them as you are leaving a place (not when you're standing around). I once made the mistake of giving some food to a sweet young boy in the Calcutta railway station; literally two minutes later, twenty children from all directions were seen running full speed towards me.
It's a matter of personal choice how you approach the issue of beggars and baksheesh. Some people feel it is best to give nothing to any beggar as it only encourages them so, instead, they chose to contribute to a charitable institute such as Mother Teresa's Hospital in Calcutta or make a donation to an ashram for the feeding of the poor. Others give away loose change when they have it. Some insulate themselves entirely and give nothing. It's up to you.
One final thing. I used to be very harsh with beggars, not looking at them and if necessary, ordering them away from me. Then I met an American woman in Varanasi who had been living in India for some time. I watched,one day, how she responded to a poor woman begging for food: she looked the older women steadily in the eyes, and with hands folded in namaskar position, she said, "Mata-ji, I am sorry I have no money for you today." When "ji" is added to the end of a work, it signifies respect. I was very moved by the humanity in that moment and since then, I've tried to be kinder and more respectful.
By the way, genuine sannyasins (holy men) don't beg or hassle tourists. They sit outside temples or near ritual bathing tanks, patiently waiting with their rice bowls.
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